Table Talk: Choosing An Easter Ham

Our ancestors did not pick holiday foods arbitrarily. They chose what was good
at the time of year. At Easter that means that had to go for either a very young
animal, just born that spring, or something preserved. The most popular young
animal was lamb, and it has remained the traditional centerpiece of the Easter
meal in Greece and much of southern Europe. In England, too, it’s a favorite.
The other option is ham.

Made in autumn after the pigs had gotten fat, ham could be kept over the winter
and brought out as a handsome pice de resistance to celebrate Easter by ending
the Lenten fast in style. Ham remains popular at Easter throughout much of
northern Europe.

Here in America, turkey offers some competition, and so does lamb, but ham is
still the favorite Easter choice. And there’s a lot to choose from. Some hams
are still on the bone; others are not. Some have their skins; others don’t. Some
are already sliced; others leave the work to whoever carves at home. Most have
nitrites; a few don’t. Prices range from as low as $1.29 per pound for a ham
that’s on a supermarket special to $5.99 a pound, and even higher, for a premium
ham. So how do you know what to choose

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