Taste Fish Charcuterie, From Sea Bass Jerky to Salmon Pastrami, at These U.S. Restaurants

Summer is the perfect time to try a hot dog, pepperoni, or bacon made with seafood rather than meat.

There’s nothing quite like Spain’s famous jamón Ibérico carved tableside — except, maybe, tuna prepared and served the same way at Ilis, the Brooklyn restaurant from Noma co-founder Mads Refslund. He salt-cures the fish for one day per kilo of weight, then ages it for four to six months “until it develops a deep, meaty flavor and firm texture.” At that point, the funky tuna ham is sliced thinly at your table and “served simply with extra virgin olive oil and a touch of black pepper, allowing the pure flavor of the fish to shine.”

You might call it fish charcuterie, and it’s rooted in ancient practices like the curing of Japanese katsuobushi or the smoking of salmon by Native Americans, using techniques that both preserve and flavor precious ingredients. “Aging and curing amplify the depth and complexity of the fish, while also helping us use more of each catch — minimizing waste,” says Refslund. And these techniques are having a moment in the U.S.

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