HISEVILLE, KY. — The 600 calves raised by Leland Glass in the south-central part of this state spend their days in pastures with trees for shade and ponds for wading. They nurse lazily alongside their mothers.
“The only way you could get more natural is if you take the fences out,” Mr. Glass said.
Mr. Glass raises calves for Strauss Brands, a third-generation Milwaukee livestock processor, producing veal that is sold at select Whole Foods stores and has appeared on menus in restaurants ranging from Macaroni Grill, the chain, to Mesa Grill, Bobby Flay’s outpost in Las Vegas.
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