Organ Meats & Their Ilk Ascend The Food Chain

WATCHING Anthony Bourdain eat pig’s ears and lamb’s tongue on the Travel Channel
is one thing. Eating it yourself is something else altogether.

But call it what you will – spare parts, offal, variety meats, mixed grille –
the nose-to-tail movement is alive and well in some area chefs’ kitchens.

Although Chip Roman didn’t grow up on organ meats – “I’m from Fishtown, we don’t
eat that stuff!” – the Blackfish chef/owner uses plenty of parts on the menu at
his well-regarded Conshohocken bistro. From foie gras to lamb neck, kidney and
heart, Roman takes a waste-not-want-not attitude to meat. He even included
sweetbreads (that would be the thymus and pancreas of a beef calf or lamb) on
his Valentine’s Day menu

Photo Caption: Roman with the sweetbread dish.

Photo Credit: Sarah Glover

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Philadelphia Daily News