Interesting Cheese Rinds Make For Interesting Flavors, Too

MADISON, Wis. —As consumers continue to expand their culinary knowledge and seek new and interesting tastes, many Wisconsin cheesemakers are working from the outside in to create flavor. Cheeses are being soaked, rubbed, schmeared and washed, making their rinds just as interesting and appealing as what’s inside.

Wisconsin cheesemakers are leading the way with their innovative rinds. Carr Valley’s Apple Smoked Cheddar is hand-rubbed with paprika to give the cheese a complex and balanced flavor. It won first place at the 2005 American Cheese Society Competition. Sartori Reserve also offers a paprika-rubbed cheese called Pastorale Blend, made with both cow and sheep milk. The paprika brings an eye-popping color that is sure to attract attention in any cheese case.

Sartori Reserve also soaks several of its cheeses in the BellaVitano line to create appealing rinds with unique flavors. The newly introduced Cognac BellaVitano offers a complex fusion of smoky, nutty, oak, vanilla and caramel with toasted notes. Raspberry BellaVitano is soaked in Raspberry Tart Ale from Wisconsin’s New Glarus Brewery. Merlot BellaVitano and Balsamic BellaVitano are similarly soaked to add complementary flavors to the cheese.

Even rinds that are not meant to be eaten can enhance the flavor of the cheese inside thanks to the affinage process. Willi Lehner of Bleu Mont Dairy created his Earth Schmear cheese with a filtered brew made from the soil at his home in Blue Mounds, Wis. The schmear is used to wipe down wheels of dry-salted cheese, imparting a rich sense of terroir. In her book, “The Cheese Chronicles,” author Liz Thorpe wrote of the finished cheese, “It tastes like loamy garden, sea salt, butter, and sour cream cake. It’s amazing.”

Washed rinds also flavor cheeses during the affinage process, and some of them are edible. Les Frères and Petit Frères from Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese are semi-soft washed rind cheeses with an earthy, fruity flavor. The edible rind is light tan in color and the interior is creamy – with an almost Brie-like texture and nutty aftertaste.

Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve is washed several times a week throughout the aging process. The bacteria in the brine, as well as the microflora indigenous to the raw milk used to create the cheese, develop flavors that become more complex and concentrated as the cheese ages. The rind itself is not typically eaten, but it is vital to creating the rich, smooth interior that has made this cheese such a success. It recently won the Best of Show prize at the 2010 American Cheese Society competition, becoming the only cheese ever to receive the award three times.

Pavé Henri is a new washed rind, Trappist-style cheese from Fayette Creamery, a line of artisan cheeses from Brunkow Cheese. This introduction is sure to be a favorite for stinky cheese lovers. Its scent has drawn comparisons to Limburger, but the taste is surprisingly mild with a buttery texture. Limburger –– the grandfather of Wisconsin rind cheeses – is still made by Chalet Cheese Cooperative, the same plant that has been making this cheese since 1885.

Cheeses with interesting rinds make a great addition to a cheese plate and are perfect for entertaining. To increase buyer confidence, consider using signage to describe the flavors of theses cheeses and explain how to approach their rinds. With these complex cheeses, sampling is a must.

Customers Want to Know…

Should I eat the rind?
Whether or not to eat the rind is sometimes a matter of taste, but generally the rinds of soft cheeses can be eaten, while those of harder cheeses are often unpleasant.

Are there any uses for uneaten rinds?
The natural rinds of hard cheeses, especially Parmesan, are wonderful for flavoring soups and stocks. Freeze your leftover rinds in resealable bags so you always have one handy.

Do all cheeses have a rind?
No. Some varieties, such as Brick and Colby, are ripened in plastic film or other protective coating to prevent rind formation. Other cheeses, such as Feta, are rindless because they are not allowed to ripen.

Do cheeses with rinds always have a strong flavor?
Not always. Washed rind cheeses often have a strong flavor, but some are surprisingly mild. Ask for a sample and find out for yourself!

For photos or samples, contact Joanna Miller at (608) 241-4141 x229 or jmiller@stephanbrady.com. For more information about Wisconsin Cheese, visit here.

Source: Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board