Dean & DeLuca Baking Its Own Breads

Nearly 35 years after Dean & DeLuca opened its first shop, on Prince Street in SoHo, this specialty-food chain has made another big leap. It has started baking its own bread, in a kitchen on West 28th Street, instead of selling only a collection of breads from companies like Sullivan Street Bakery and Amy’s Bread.

The baker is Louis Volle, above, a 28-year-old New Yorker who grew up in France and worked at Fauchon before returning to bake bread at Per Se and Bouchon Bakery. He has introduced a basic baguette and a fine round sourdough at Dean & DeLuca, as well as some less-common standouts. In Mr. Volle’s hands, pain de mie, a dense French white bread meant for slicing, has a beautifully fluted crust and is delicious as a substitute for brioche, with a slab of pâté. His dark chestnut bread has a deep earthiness. Several other loaves are studded with fruits and nuts.

As he moves on from the holiday season, Mr. Volle will vary the inventory and soon introduce several loaves flavored with orange zest, candied lemon and other citruses. “I’m trying to keep my breads seasonal, and distinctive from what we usually sell,” he said, adding that breads from other bakeries will still be available.

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