When Charleston eaters gripe about locally underrepresented culinary categories, their complaints usually center on global cuisines. But one of the gaping holes in the city’s restaurant scene is exceptional bread, a situation that may change with the arrival of one of the Lowcountry’s most talented bread bakers.

Chris Wilkins, formerly of The Florence in Savannah, is opening Root Baking Co. on Johns Island to serve restaurants throughout the area. The wholesaler will also supply groceries and farmers markets.

“Our thing is basically making hearth breads with Southern grains,” Wilkins says. “I thought we could do a retail bakery in Savannah, but I wanted a little more freedom to work with chefs and growers on a smaller scale. Charleston is a town that has a huge restaurant scene to support.”

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