Skate is one perplexing fish. Pricey and pampered at the best restaurants in the country; cursed by recreational fishermen who get stuck by spiny spurs as they toss it back into the water. Cheap and plentiful year-round, yet eschewed by the bargain-friendly purveyors at the District’s Maine Avenue wharf.
And almost never cooked at home. The catalogue of reasons why could fill the negative side of a pros-and-cons list faster than butter melts in Iran City. But lack of spontaneous availability — as in, say, let’s pick up some skate for dinner tonight! — ranks near the top.
If it is too fresh, it can be tough, says chef-restaurateur Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernardin.
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