Restaurateurs Find Farm-To-Table Sourcing Costly, Constraining

Is it time to reconsider the farm-to-table movement?

Some restaurant owners say it is. Last week, Legume chef Trevett Hooper sent an announcement to his newsletter subscribers to say he is reconsidering his hyper-local ethos.

After a year of sourcing all meat and poultry from animals raised in Pennsylvania, he has decided such vigilance is too constraining: It limits his menu, it limits the creativity of his staff and he feels it has been somewhat of a "self-centered exercise," he said.

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