For eight years, Julia Chimborazo has sold Italian ice on the streets of Brooklyn and Queens, doing what she can to support her two young children and send money to a third, who still lives in her native Ecuador.
She is part of the movable feast of street food vendors in New York City, offering a rich variety of native and innovative options, seldom from the same location. And Ms. Chimborazo, like many others, does so illegally.
There is a limit on the number of food carts and trucks allowed on the city’s streets, and even those who have managed to secure a permit — often on the black resale market — have found that the cost and difficulty of doing business can outweigh the benefits.
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