Chefs Give Southern Favorite A Sophisticated Touch

AUSTIN, Texas — To give you an idea of how passionately grits lovers feel about grits, just ask them about Cream of Wheat.

"My mother tried to sneak Cream of Wheat (instead of grits) one morning at breakfast, and we weren't having it," says Socar Chatmon-Thomas, one of about 10 women at Hoover's Home Cooking in North Austin last weekend who were riled up at the mention of That Other Breakfast Mush, which is made from wheat instead of corn.

The women, part of a local group of grits fans called Girls Raised In The South, could have debated among themselves all day about the perfect way to eat one of the South's greatest dishes, but one thing was clear: If it's not white hominy grits, preferably like the salt-and-butter soupy kind served with eggs and sausage at Hoover's, it ain't grits.

Grits have been a staple of Southern food as long as there has been a South, but nearly every culture whose diet include corn eats some kind of cornmeal porridge, which brings us to the polemic p-word.

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