SOUTH KINGSTOWN — Perry Raso stands waist-deep in the gray-green waters of Potter Pond. The sky is spitting rain, but Raso barely notices as he pulls a plastic mesh bag from the pond’s sandy bed and extracts a handful of quarter-sized oysters.
“Oysters are like wine. They take on the flavor and texture of where they are grown,” he said.
I’m standing on the pontoon boat Raso, 35, uses to shuttle between the dock at his popular seafood restaurant, Matunuck Oyster Bar, and his seven-acre commercial aquaculture lease. Scanning the watery vista, I spot bags that stretch like stepping stones in seemingly endless neat lines beneath the surface.
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