Just as you’ll find piles of turkeys on a trip through the meat department in
November, you’ll find heaps of ham come April. With Easter feasts and spring
brunches on the horizon, everyone seems to have glazed, baked ham on their minds
— and on their menus.
Ham is the name for the back thigh and rump of a pig. You can order a fresh
(uncured) ham from the butcher and simply roast it, or cure it and even smoke it
yourself. But most hams are already cured, which gives you two choices: wet or
dry.
The world’s best hams, from Italian prosciutto and Spanish serrano to German
Black Forest and even American country hams, are dry-cured with salt rather than
water-based brine. Dry curing pulls moisture out and concentrates the flavor of
the meat.
Many dry-cured hams are sliced paper thin and served as an accompaniment to
other things, like cheese or salads. But in this country, particularly in the
South where country hams are very popular, dry-cured hams are often cooked —
usually sliced and fried, or left whole and simmered or glazed and baked. Since
saltiness and lack of moisture are an issue, country ham destined for baking
must be scrubbed under running water, soaked in cold water for 12 to 24 hours
(changing the water once or twice during that time), and then simmered for one
to two hours and allowed to cool in its cooking liquid. This is all done before
it’s brushed with a glaze and baked. It’s a lot of work, but your reward is a
deeply flavored ham.
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