The Physiology of Foie: Why Foie Gras is Not Unethical

I haven't always been comfortable with foie gras, though I've spent a good chunk of my life working with it. At first, the discomfort was with the taste. I tried it first as a teenager in the form of a cold terrine that tasted mostly of cat food to me. Then again, I also hated mayonnaise, brussels sprouts, and fish at the time, so my young opinion could hardly be trusted. Later on, as my culinary career expanded, I learned to love it.

I learned to appreciate how it spreads like the world's most decadent and flavorful butter when served cold as a torchon. I learned to appreciate how when it's served hot, it's crisp, sweet, and savory, and melts in your mouth like no other food in the world. And then I learned how it's produced. How in order to get the liver to expand to a good 600% of its natural size, the ducks must be force-fed in a practice known as gavage, wherein a long metal tube (like the one on the right) is forcibly inserted into the duck's mouth up to three times a day and a large amount of food is crammed into its gullet until the liver becomes so large that it takes up the vast majority of the bird's body cavity.

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