Craving pastrami on rye? Maybe a good sour pickle? A nice chopped liver?
You’re so on trend.
Reclaimed by a new generation of culinary creatives, deli is having a moment. In locales as far-flung as Denver, Nashville and Sacramento, ambitious eateries are popping up like matzoh balls in broth. Some are amping up classics with artisanal approaches. Others have unleashed mad-scientist reboots — think corned beef with kimchi or matzoh balls in pho. The results have been thrilling across the board. “When,” asks Bon Appétit in a recent feature, “did Jewish food get so cool?”
The answer is as layered as a Reuben. For some, it’s nostalgia. “We’re in a tumultuous time. As a culture, we’re craving slow, real, grounded food,” said Willa Zhen, a food anthropologist and a professor of liberal arts and food studies at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. “Jewish food feels comforting, tasty and familiar.”
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