If the phrase "Swiss cheese" still conjures the sort of holey slice that you put in a mousetrap, please treat yourself to a generous wedge of Montagne du Jura. This lovely raw-milk cheese from the canton of Bern, in northwest Switzerland, is definitely Swiss cheese. But I would not sacrifice even a nibble to any purpose other than my own or my guests' pleasure.
The Spielhofer family that makes Montagne du Jura buys its cow's milk from an 80-year-old cooperative that specializes in Gruyere. Montagne du Jura resembles Gruyere in flavor, but in format it is closer to Appenzeller, another Swiss mountain specialty. The Appenzeller is slightly smaller; Montagne du Jura weighs in at about 18 pounds. And Appenzeller is no longer routinely made with raw milk.
Another key difference is that wheels of Montagne du Jura do not get the repeated brine washings typical of Appenzeller, Challerhocker and other Swiss mountain cheeses.
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