Massachusetts Dairy Farm Milks Gourmet Cheese Trend

A new sort of cheese will soon show up on the shelves of Smith’s Farmstead in Winchendon and at a few local farmers markets. It’s a chipotle pepper hand-rubbed gouda that comes with a kick followed by a smoky aftertaste that Dave Smith hopes will make you crave more.

It’s a bit of an avant-garde product for a traditional dairy farm, but then the Smiths were making gourmet cheeses long before they were fashionable. Having a passion for cows is just not enough to keep a farmer in business.

“You have to keep reinventing yourself,” he said.

Smith got into the business 42 years ago as the industry was shifting away from small, independent farms to larger operations, a trend that grew stronger. In 1950, there were 3.6 million farms. By 2008, that had dwindled to just 57,000.

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