With raging red bulls on the label and those big “X”s on the rind, it’s clear
Scharfe Maxx (German for “Most Sharp”) is meant to be intense.
“If there were any more X’s we’d have to card you, it’s so strong,” said Di
Bruno Bros. cheesemonger Dan Black.
That’s OK. Scharfe Maxx is already powerful enough as it is, a Swiss knockout
from Studer Dairy near the Bodensee on the Swiss-German border. If you like
Gruyre, this new arrival to Philly takes the alpine genre to another level.
Made in relatively small 15-pound wheels that age quickly, extra cream is added
to keep the texture firm-yet-rich. A wash of brine and herbs adds even more
complexity to this distinctive cheese. It’s mushroomy, nutty, and swaggeringly
tangy (without being sour), with a pronounced caraway finish.
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