Pity the West Coast bagel. Too often baked in steam instead of being boiled and baked. Too often bready and cakey instead of chewy and dense. Too often swollen so the hole is nearly absent instead of sporting an aperture roughly the size of a silver dollar.
And too often, not even a good schmear in sight.
Zak Gilbert, owner of Rounds Bakery, wants to rescue Northern Nevada from West Coast bagel shortcomings — and from bagel blasphemy in general.
“There’s a public image that a bagel is a bagel, but that’s not true,” said Gilbert, 40, who is cheerily passionate about these yeasted rolls with holes.
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