Reservations? Not accepted.
That is the blunt message for restless queues of hungry diners at a clutch of new restaurants in New York City, ranging from Má Pêche, David Chang’s place in Midtown; to the Breslin, April Bloomfield’s kitchen north of Madison Square Park; to Fatty ’Cue, Zak Pelaccio’s restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.
At these places and countless others that offer distinctive food amid not-always-shabby chic, the old reservation-book exclusivity has been replaced by an equally restrictive populist no-reservations scrum.
Some diners hear the message as inclusive. For others, it is infuriating, often to the point of their avoiding certain restaurants entirely.
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