Travel U.S. Highway 19 through the South Georgia community of Thomasville. Just a few miles north of town, you’ll see a small green and white sign at the west side of the road. It marks an unpaved driveway leading through trees. You’ve found the home of Sweet Grass Dairy, one of the nation’s pre-eminent artisan cheesemakers.
The drive leads you through meadows dotted with chicken tractors. At the end is a two-story family home with a trampoline in the backyard and an herb garden planted in the sandy soil. Across the drive is a nondescript metal building.
“This?” you think. “This is where they make that wonderful cheese?”
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