They arrive by bike, motorcycle, walker and car to Sainte-Élizabeth-de-Warwick, Que., population 374, and, truly, not much more than a crossroads amid the lush green farmland. By 10 a.m., dozens have set up their lawn chairs or claimed spots at the scattering of picnic tables.
By about 6 p.m., nearly 4,000 have made the pilgrimage from near and far, parking in outfields and getting rides on tractor-pulled wagons.
The destination is a church, but the gathering — with wine, Neil Young songs and plenty of merriment — is not religious, unless, of course, you consider fine cheeses worthy of devotion, which many in the crowd clearly do.
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