WATCHING Anthony Bourdain eat pig’s ears and lamb’s tongue on the Travel Channel
is one thing. Eating it yourself is something else altogether.
But call it what you will – spare parts, offal, variety meats, mixed grille –
the nose-to-tail movement is alive and well in some area chefs’ kitchens.
Although Chip Roman didn’t grow up on organ meats – “I’m from Fishtown, we don’t
eat that stuff!” – the Blackfish chef/owner uses plenty of parts on the menu at
his well-regarded Conshohocken bistro. From foie gras to lamb neck, kidney and
heart, Roman takes a waste-not-want-not attitude to meat. He even included
sweetbreads (that would be the thymus and pancreas of a beef calf or lamb) on
his Valentine’s Day menu
Photo Caption: Roman with the sweetbread dish.
Photo Credit: Sarah Glover
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