No matter the occasion, my friend Rafael inevitably shows up with a platter of prosciutto di San Daniele, the sweeter cousin of Parma ham, that he's purchased at Roma Deli in Pasadena. It's always perfectly sliced, the way they do it in Italy, so thin the ham almost melts on the tongue and you can taste every bit of its salty-sweet goodness.
That's an example of sumptuous minimalism in a charcuterie or salumi plate. And it used to be about the only option if you wanted to put together one at home. But now, thanks to a relaxing of import regulations and a new generation of homegrown butchers passionate about the art of charcuterie and salumi, anyone having a dinner party can put together the sort of cold cuts plate we could only dream about until very recently.
Sampling handcrafted salame or chorizo, supple hams and other cured meats, each bite complex and compelling, is a wonderful way to start a meal. The artisans who make the goods have done all the work in choosing the meat, curing it and aging it. Your job is simply to enjoy.
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