NICOSIA, Cyprus—A battle is raging on this Mediterranean island, where civilizations have clashed for centuries. Roman, Ottoman and British forces have occupied it, and Turkey still controls almost half the country. This time, the turf war is over cheese.
Halloumi, a rubbery Cypriot delicacy that doesn't melt when fried or grilled, is in culinary fashion. Demand is booming across Europe and beyond. But arguments are erupting about new government efforts to control the official recipe.
This August, after decades of lax regulation, the Cypriot government decided that halloumi should contain at least 51% sheep and goat milk. That has caused a stink among cattle farmers and large halloumi producers who have been making the cheese sometimes with more than 90% cow's milk.
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