The American artisan cheese world lost a giant earlier this month with the passing of Ignazio Vella.
The proprietor of Sonoma's Vella Cheese Co., a business started by his father, Vella mentored many of the country's most successful young cheese makers, from Laura Chenel to Sue Conley of Cowgirl Creamery to Monte McIntyre, formerly of Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese. His own benchmark cheese, Vella Dry Jack, triumphed in so many American Cheese Society contests that Vella finally retired it from competition.
Known to everyone in the industry as Ig – no last name necessary – Vella had an outspoken, pull-no-punches personality and a booming voice to match his large stature. He loved a good argument and an audience, although I never saw him use the limelight for his own benefit. When he took the microphone at a conference – which is typically where I encountered him – it was often to goad others to greatness. He reminded me of Robert Mondavi, who used his own renown and credibility to champion all California wine.
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