NEWPORT NEWS, Va. — Growing oysters in Virginia used to be a lousy business venture.
Only the most ardent farmers could steer the Chesapeake Bay delicacy past diseases, predators and other obstacles into adulthood.
That was before advances, most notably the creation of a genetically modified oyster, made cultivation easier and profitable.
Now everyone from watermen to real estate agents want part of the action. And the industry, after years of flying under the radar, is stirring controversy in Hampton Roads and beyond.
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