Last fall I had the opportunity to visit a tiny family-run creamery in the Valsesia, a stunningly beautiful valley in Italy's Piedmont region, near the Swiss border, where cows and goats probably outnumber the residents. The dairy I toured – La Giunca in Fobello – makes cheese from the milk of both animals.
On the day I arrived, cheesemaker Bruno Giovannaci had just broken a bone in his foot and was on crutches. Understandably in a foul mood, he stood by the vat in obvious pain, directing his son, Gianluca, through the cheesemaking process. I think Bruno could have curdled the milk with his scowl.
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